Goodridge Hydraulic Hose Upgrade
So why do you want to do this? Replacing the standard plastic hose with the Goodridge 3-ply braided stainless steel hose will reduce expansion of the cable meaning all the braking power is going directly to your brake pads. This improves performance and feel. Not bad for circa £25 per brake.
Here's a step by step guide to how I did it for my Hope M4 and Hope XC4. There is also some guidance given relating to the newer model Hope Mono Mini.
But read my disclaimer and if you aren't a competent mechanic then you shouldn't even think about doing this yourself. Brakes are the last thing you want to fail on you.
There is also a useful guide in the March 2006 edition of MBR if you have that handy (page 149). You will see this lying open on my workbench in some of the pictures.
Remove the brake pads. If you are messing about with brake fluid you don't want to get it on the pads as this will ruin them. I mark my tool bench with Front and Rear so I know which way back they go. If you put the retaining bolt and clip in too this means they will go back in exactly the same way them came out.
The kit contains the braided hose, various fittings and O-rings, a sticker for your frame and some extremely basic instructions which you will struggle to follow if that is all you are referring to.
Measure the new hose by holding it next to your existing hose. Remember there is circa 10 mm at each end hidden by the aluminium collars. Now is the time to think about the length of your existing cable. Is it slightly too short following your fork upgrade or is it far too long and now is the time to take a couple of centimetres off it? Remember though, measure TWICE and cut ONCE.
Using a quality set of cable cutters, cut the hose to the correct length. Did I say measure TWICE and cut ONCE?
The hose will be flattened at the end where you have cut it. Use the cable cutters to gently squeeze it back into shape
Push the first compression collar onto the end of the cable. Remember, with the latest brakeline kit there is NO NEED to strip 11mm off the plastic collar. It will be a firm fit but the plastic covered hose pushes right inside the collar
Push the banjo fitting inside the collar. Make sure it fits into the centre of the open hose and doesn't go in off-centre. You will need firstly for the narrow end section to screw itself inside the plastic inner hose and then for the larger section to screw into the compression collar. Do NOT screw it all the way in. Leave a gap of circa 1.5 mm between the fittings.
Repeat this for the other end of the hose but this time insert the square fitting (you will only have one banjo fitting). You should end up with a hose that looks like the picture. Note the gaps between the collar and the fittings i.e. 1.5mm
Now it's time to start removing your existing black plastic hose. Have a container handy to catch any brake fluid that may be spilt or ooze from the end of the hose. Use a socket or suitable size spanner to remove the banjo locking nut. There will be a little bit of brake fluid dripping but as long as you don't do anything stupid like pulling the brake lever then the flow will soon stop.
Repeat this for the reservoir end of the hose. Note, once you remove this, the vacuum in the hose will be broken and the fluid inside the hose will evacuate so make sure the end is in a suitable container.
Offer up the new cable end to the reservoir. I have used the same picture in case you are confused; note the new hose in the centre of the picture. Make sure you put the copper shim on the end of the thread. This is included in the pack but no reference is made to it in any of the instructions.
It is much easier to fit the reservoir end first as you need to rotate the whole hose to tighten up the thread. Difficult if it is already attached at the caliper end.
For the banjo end of the cable, add one of the Goodridge O-rings either side of the banjo and then use the beautifully machined fixing bolt to attach the hose to the caliper.
If you have the older XC4 type brakes, the kit will still work but note that the banjo is at the lever end of the brake instead of connected to the caliper.
That's it! Now repeat for the front brake, bleed the brakes as per usual and you are ready to roll.
The original black hose in place, front and rear.
Remove the pad retaining pins.
Use a spanner to push the pistons back in. Remember to remove the reservoir cap before you do this to remove the resistance.
Removing the banjo from the rear caliper.
Cutting the hose to length.
The compression collar fitted to the hose end
The banjo fitted inside the compression cap.
The banjo fitted back to the caliper.
Fitting the reservoir end of the hose.
Milky fluid which has seen better days. Remove with a syringe before bleeding.
Huey's bleeding kit.
Thanks also to Huey for general technical advice and some of the pictures above, mainly those relating to the new model Hope Mono M4 brakes, all photos of which carry his copyright.
photos and content copyright of Richard Sear 1999 to 2015
all photos and content copyright of Richard Sear 1999 to 2015