Fox Vanilla Fork 130R Service

So just how do you service the Fox Vanilla 130R fork? The fork has been sitting unused in the garage for a few months whilst I try to work this out.

If you google Fox Vanilla Fork service you either get recommended to use TF Tuned forks (very good reports all round) or send them to Mojo. But there is no guidance for the budding mechanic or skinflint such as myself. Even the pages on the FoxShox site seem to have been removed.

But seriously, one of the main reasons for not sending these off for a service is that I have spotted the dreaded stanchion wear on one side. This section of the stanchion was hidden behind the fork brace right where all the grit and grime collects.

TFT and Mojo would no doubt be able to replace the stanchion but I knew that it would cost me dear.

So after chatting to Huey on our Saturday ride I thought it was worth dismantling the fork just to see how easy it was to service. If I couldn't service it or re-assemble the pieces then nothing was lost as it's not working anyway and I could then reconsider sending it off to TFT for work.

So of course I thought it was worth committing to the internet for your guidance. Caution: This is for the 130R only; I have no idea if the 130RL or 130RLC are any different once you take the spanner to them.

1. Take a photo of the fork to remind yourself how it all goes back together - so that's the pink cap (rebound) on the right and blue (pre-load) on the left
2. Look's pretty simple at the bottom of the fork
3. Unscrew the pre-load cap anti-clockwise using a socket wrench or a wide mouthed spanner. This is a small part and will come straight out. Remove the plastic spacer that sits on top of the spring and remove the spring too. Unscrew the rebound cap anti-clockwise but this will stay in the fork as this is one long unit. Find an oil pan or similar receptacle and drain the oil out of both sides of the fork. You will need to 'pump' the long rebound rod to remove oil that is inside this.
4. Unscrew the nuts at the bottom of each fork leg. Be careful to keep the small black nylon crush washers that are either inside the nut or stuck onto the bottom of the fork. You can then pull the rebound rod out as this was secured by the nut. A smaller rod that supported the spring will also come out of the pre-load side. you will now also be able to pull the stanchions out of the fork lowers
5. Your once expensive piece of suspension is now just a jumble of metal rods and springs
6. Uh-oh! There's the stanchion wear
7. Use a degreaser to remove the grease and crud that has built up both outside and inside the stanchions and fork lowers as well as the rods and springs.
8. Degreased pieces of fork now ready for re-assembly
9. Gently insert the stanchions into the fork lowers taking care not to damage the seals you have just carefully cleaned. They should slide in easily.
10. Insert the long rebound rod into the left stanchion
11. Locate the rebound rod in the stanchion so that the bolt emerges through the bottom of the fork lower. Push the black nylon crush washer onto the bolt and then add the nut and tighten.
12. Slide the smaller rod into the right hand stanchion. It is much shorter than the stanchion so you need to move the lower around until the bolt emerges through the bottom of the fork lower. Put the spring back into the stanchion too and push down on the spring while you push the black nylon crush washer onto the bottom of the rod and then tighten the nut.
13. Measue between 30-50cc of the new 7.5wt. fork oil into a measuring jug. Pour it into the pre-load side (with the blue cap) first and then replace and tighten the blue cap. This will prevent the stanchions sliding down inside the fork lowers and spilling all your carefully measured oil
14. Measure 155cc of oil (or a smidgeon more to take account of the oil that will get left in the jug) and pour into the left hand side. This is a bit more tricky as the top of the rebound rod will be in the way. Then push down gently on the pink cap and tighten into place.
15. The serviced forks. No leaks apparent even though I used the same seals but I need to take these out for a test ride to confirm that the top seals/wipers are working okay.

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